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Gothic glory, the fashion vibe that never really goes away

Gothic vibes are creeping into wardrobes again, and Polly Vernon is here for it. With the new Beetlejuice film and a Tim Burton exhibit opening this month at The Design Museum, she breaks down how to channel your inner goth in 2024—whether for the office, brunch, or a dramatic night out.

2 October 2024

Every woman has (at least) a little bit of gothic in her. These are just facts. A little witchy woo. A smidge of Kate Bush. A top note of Stevie Nicks. A hint of American Horror Stories anti-heroine (Kim K in Delicate, anyone?), a barely-suppressed yearning for a night in alone on the sofa with The Craft on VHS, an apparently incongruous but still quite undeniable fondness for a purple velvet trim… A lone fluorescent star, stuck to the ceiling above your bed, a dusty tarot card with a story behind it, hidden in the depths of your purse, an album by The Cure, eternally queued up for another listen… Gothic is the fashion vibe which never really goes away, never leaves us. It haunts us, if you will.  

And there are times when this simmering, enduring collective gothic impulse comes swooping and raging to the fore, blood red nails outstretched, trailing sequins, woodsmoke mingled with musk, wild hair. When it dominates our wardrobes and our cultural touchstones flagrantly and unapologetically – as opposed to caressing its edges a little creepily.   

Now, the autumn of 2024 is one of those times. The Design Museum hosts The World of Tim Burton, a celebration of the mind and the work of the man who brought us Edward Scissorhands, The Corpse Bride… And, of course, Beetlejuice, both the 1988 original and the freshly premiered 2024 revisitation, which stars Winona Ryder (a defining gothic icon) and Jenna Ortega, contemporary scream queen, also: Wednesday Addams of Netflix’s gothic smash hit, Wednesday. What are we armies of secret goths to do, but respond to this cultural submersion in gothic aesthetic, by rising up and reflecting it with our own wardrobes?

I know I shall. Already am, if I’m honest.

Business Gothic

I am serving gothic, three ways. First up: Office Gothic. Business Gothic. 

The sort of gothic that would fly – just about – in a corporate environment (though it would definitely also manage to put people on edge, for reasons they can’t quite elucidate, can’t quite express). 

Start with a Chanel black lambskin pencil skirt as a base, team with Prada’s black organza shirt with the pussy bow neck (Prada bralet underneath for propriety’s sake. Or not! You do you). Wear with Dolce & Gabbana’s crocodile print boots and crucially an Emilio Pucci silk-twill maxi scarf around your hair to ensure your look stays the right side of gothic, quite distinct from dominatrix (these two can get entangled).

Prada shirt, £1,520
Prada bra top, £750
Prada skirt £1,930
Dolce & Gabbana boots, £1,700
Pucci silk-twill maxi scarf, £430

Brunch Gothic

The second way I shall be serving gothic for your consideration, is Brunch Gothic. Weekend Gothic. 

Easy breezy… Well. As easy and breezy as Gothic ever gets, anyway (which isn’t terribly, let’s not lie). This energy was perfectly nailed by Gucci’s A/W 24 runway show, special mention to look 26. I’d take that black, leather, logo-embossed cocoon jacket – yet to come into stock, though there is a similar piece in a blood-burgundy available – and I’d also take the choker, but I’d pair them with Rag & Bone’s Quinn leather boots, and tights. Possibly fishnet, possibly pre-laddered opaques.

Gucci autumn/winter 2024 (look 26)
Gucci jacket, £5,300
Gucci choker, £2,200
Rag & Bone boots, £400

Modern Party Gothic

The third and final way I shall be serving you gothic for you today, is Modern Party Gothic, which you might also call Funereal Prom (2024’s version). 

Balenciaga’s Twisted dress is a beautiful, miserable, petulant confusion of a piece, AKA everything you could hope for and more. Wear with Dior Tribales slingback pumps (with a pearl piercing)… And perhaps consider doing a mid-bash costume change, into a lace Dolce & Gabbana bodysuit, with a Dolce & Gabbana chiffon skirt layered over the top.

Accessorise any of the above, with armfuls of bangles, a jet-black Prada ring, a Balenciaga nose ring – and / or a small vial of blood procured from the willing wrist of your last lover-but-one (it’s got power).

Balenciaga dress, £3,290
Dior pumps, £1,990
Dolce & Gabbana bodysuit, £1,550
Dolce & Gabbana skirt, £1,100
Prada ring, £390
Balenciaga nose ring, £290

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