There are few models in fashion with such a far-reaching reputation, longevity and global appeal as Naomi Campbell.  

BMW recently named Campbell as the inspiration for the XM Mystique Allure, its newest car. But this is nothing new. Throughout her illustrious career she has been the face of luxury fragrances and dabbled as a singer, designer and a contributing editor at Vogue. She has also appeared in documentaries, TV series, films and music videos. It is a lesser-known fact that she even featured in Bob Marley’s Is This Love video at the tender age of seven. Icons know icons, after all. 

The Italia Conti schoolgirl from south London was first discovered in Covent Garden in 1986, aged 15, by model agent Beth Boldt, who perhaps knew then that Naomi’s career would go stratospheric, and she would become the world’s first Black supermodel. 

In December 1987 she graced the cover of British Vogue, and the next year became the first Black woman ever to appear as a model on the cover of Vogue Paris; an image with groundbreaking cultural impact that cannot be overstated, and which features in the exhibition. 

However, it wasn’t until 1993 when she took a tumble on the runway wearing a pair of vertiginous blue Vivienne Westwood platforms that she hit the mainstream, her image emblazoned across newspapers. Her journey as a household name had begun. 

But Campbell’s legend extends far beyond the realms of fashion. There were highs — she was taken under the wing of Nelson Mandela, who opened her eyes to social injustice — and lows. 

With a life that was rarely out of the public eye, the exhibition explores an infamous biographical chapter, when Campbell served a period of court-ordered community service for assault. On day one, as she climbed out of the police van to begin work cleaning a New York City sanitation garage, she mistakenly handed her handbag to a policeman (who she assumed to be a bodyguard), and went on to captivate the world’s media with a series of double-take-worthy looks. 

With a fabulous logic that we can’t argue with, she asked, “Why should they expect me to go looking bedraggled or something?” On display is the floor-length, bejewelled silver Dolce & Gabbana gown that Campbell wore on her final day of duty.

“I’m honoured to be asked by the V&A to share my life in clothes with the world,” said Campbell of the exhibition, which she helped to curate. Bringing her extraordinary 40-year career to life, Naomi: In Fashion celebrates not just her style, but also her philanthropic work, including Fashion for Relief: a charitable organisation that she founded in 2005 which raises awareness for various humanitarian causes. 

It promises a wealth of memorable fashion images by the likes of Nick Knight, Steven Meisel and Tim Walker, together with glamourous gowns and fashion ensembles that she has worn with aplomb. Included are creations from Gianni and Donatella Versace, such as the Andy Warhol-print dress from their eponymous maison’s spring/summer 1991 show. A standout collection in the designer’s illustrious career that was modelled by all The Supers (Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Helena Christensen et al), the runway saw pieces emboldened by bold primary colours and playful pop-culture referencing.

There are also John Galliano and Yves Saint Laurent designs, together with pieces by the legendary Paris-based designer Azzedine Alaïa, the close friend and mentor, whom Campbell referred to as ‘Papa’. 

Her life, both in and out of fashion, has been fruitful and explosive. No wonder, then, that she is the subject of a tome entitled Naomi by Taschen, and now Naomi: In Fashion, published by the V&A to accompany the exhibition. Does Campbell herself have one on her coffee table? It feels like iconic model behaviour to us. 

Naomi: In Fashion runs from 22 June 2024 to 6 April 2025. Tickets are £16, or free for members, and are available to book here. 

V&A South Kensington, Cromwell Road, SW7 2RL; vam.ac.uk