Of all the photographs showcasing King Charles III’s personal style – that cascade of double-breasted frontage, oyster-cream safari suits and frankly intimate jodhpurs – one lodges firmly in my mind, like a signet ring embedded forever in the grooves of a royal pinky.
It was taken on 1 July 1990, outside Cirencester Hospital. The prince can be seen emerging from the ward with his arm hung louchely in a sling, the victim of a particularly robust polo chukka. His wrist is swollen and bandaged; the precise prognosis is unclear. But the general elegance is never in doubt. Those pale stone trousers, with their continental pleats, starched defiantly against the heat of the late afternoon. That midnight-blue blazer hung jauntily off one shoulder in the manner of an Italian count. The pale blue shirt, opened to a three-button salute, one collar-tip poking gamely out from the blazer’s peak lapel…
And that sling – the sling! – hung in a perfect V around the neck like an open cravat, its shade of Hermès-grade pink matching perfectly with the chintzy flowers of Diana’s skirt, just next door. (The injury took place on the princess’s birthday, by the way, and her perfect look of amused, chiding indulgence is a statement of style in itself.) You’d call the whole thing sprezzatura (that knack of making a whole lot of sartorial effort seem utterly effortless), if it wasn’t so damned English. Anyone can look stylish at a planned photo op, but it takes a king to look this good by accident.
Not that there are many accidents when it comes to Charles’s personal style, of course. One of the more notable rumours about this deeply discerning man’s dressing regimen is that he asks his valet to steam-iron his shoelaces each morning. Whether it’s true or not doesn’t particularly matter: Some myths ring true even when (or perhaps especially because) they simply must be false. And some details just sit right. And if there’s one thing Charles is particular about, it’s the details.
When actor Josh O’Connor was studying the King ahead of his star turn in the third and fourth seasons of The Crown, the actor noticed a particular tick. “Whenever he gets out of a car, he checks his cufflinks, checks his pocket and then waves. The same movement every time.” This, one feels, is the sartorial equivalent of a pre-flight check; akin to the inventory commandos take before entering hostile territory.
No matter what an engagement might throw at him – mewling babies, egg-wielding republicans, the Daily Mail – Charles knows he can fall back on his personal style for protection, for succour, for a reminder of what he stands for. In this way, the double-breasted suit is also a suit of armour – steadfast, confident, unflinching.
Continuity, you see, is at the heart of Charles’s personal style. In the avant-garde, ever-churning theatre of fashion, this is not a particularly sexy word. But, as the longest-waiting heir to the throne in history, our new King operates at a different time signature to the rest of us, who scrabble desperately over trends and fads and ‘drops’.
He told the fashion world as much, in fact, at the launch of the (now long-defunct) bi-annual gathering called ‘London Collections: Men’, back in 2012. “I have lurched from being the best-dressed man to being the worst-dressed man,” he told the room. “Meanwhile, I have gone on – like a stopped clock – and my time comes around every 25 years.”