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Daniel Lee debuts his first collection for Burberry

Take a look at the designer’s vision for Burberry, featuring bold colour, ducks and some seriously covetable outerwear

22 February 2023

Daniel Lee’s first collection for Burberry made its catwalk debut in Kennington Park on Monday night, ushering in a new era for the heritage British brand. 

Lee, who was appointed to the role of chief creative officer in October, had dropped a few hints as to the direction that his Burberry would take with an ad campaign released earlier this month. It featured Liberty Ross and Vanessa Redgrave (who both took up front row seats for the runway show), as well as a cast of swans and foxes.

The collection itself was an ode to Britishness and Burberry’s heritage as an outdoor brand – with more colour than the brand has seen in its nearly 170 years. 

Lee, who took the reins from Riccardo Tisci, reimagined the brand’s signature checks in vibrant colour pairings. In varying scales of size, they came in mustard and purple, crimson and plum, khaki and yellow, cobalt and white or burgundy and pale pink. 

Nodding to the wildlife in British parkland, the collection featured T-shirts printed with swans, and ducks that appeared in various guises, from graphic repeat prints in kilts, dresses and blouses, to knitted into a playful duck-billed beanie hat. 

Speaking of hats, Lee’s affinity for creating on-the-money accessories was in evidence in the oversized trapper hats in gloriously fluffy faux fur and the footwear that referenced fly-fishing waders and oversized trainers that are sure to be as popular as the best-selling accessories he created during his tenure at Bottega Veneta

As for the bags, Lee has created several eye-catching designs with youthful appeal, from the grainy leather cross-body in teal to the roomy purple hobo bag – both with lovely stylised horse hardware. Also of note were the furry bags, some with racoon-style tails clipped to them; they brought a delightfully tactile note to the collection. 

Outerwear, a natural focus for the brand, featured fleece blanket coats in oversized checks and a blown-up print of Burberry’s Equestrian Knight Design. Trenches came in out-sized proportions with faux fur-trimmed lapels, while car coats came in relaxed cuts, bomber jackets were exaggerated and duffels had a soft silhouette. 

Here are some of the show’s highlights, which will be arriving at the Burberry flagship on Sloane Street for autumn.

Burberry, 1 Sloane Street, SW1X 9LA

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