From Chloé’s toughened-up Seventies muse, to the trouble-making rock stars at Saint Laurent, many Parisian designers tapped into a strong Seventies vein for autumn/winter 2015, channelling the boho to the punk. Elsewhere Hermès and Lanvin looked to their archives, Chanel’s tweedy ladies strolled around a proper French brasserie, and there was a cameo at Valentino by Zoolander and Hansel.
Here is our pick of the highlights from Paris Fashion Week…
Raf Simons at Dior showed a dark and sexy collection that was as wearable as it was forward-looking. There were gorgeous nods to the Dior archive in the leopard print, which Monsieur Dior introduced in 1947. And those thigh-high vinyl boots? Phwoar!
At Chloé, Clare Waight Keller’s girl had grown up into the kind of woman that wears a tailored military greatcoat in melton wool over the brand’s signature folksy dresses. The precision tailoring throughout balanced all the divinely romantic flounces and lace.
The cameo made by Derek Zoolander and Hansel, aka Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson, at the tail end of the Valentino show almost upstaged the beautiful collection, which was inspired by Emilie Flöge and Celia Birtwell, two women who were both artists and muses (Flöge to Gustav Klimt, and Birtwell to her husband, the designer Ossie Clark, as well as the painter David Hockney).
Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent girl for autumn is an unapologetic bad girl. A sexpot rock star, wearing leather leggings with cutouts up the thighs; a black leather dress slit to extreme highs; ripped and shredded tights above black leather ankle boots. Animal-print capes, navy peacoats, leather motorcycle jackets, and patchwork furs were among the very desirable outerwear.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the new artistic director of Hermès, looked to the house’s archives for her debut presentation, which riffed heavily on the brand’s equestrian heritage.
Karl Largerfeld created a proper French Brasserie for the set of his Chanel show, which featured girls in lots of charmingly grannyish tweed and dainty toe-capped slingbacks.
At Lanvin, Albar Elbaz was inspired by his own birthplace, Casablanca, and Saharan tribes for his collection. There were tassels and passementerie, Berber stripes, bracelets, leather harnesses and snakeskin yokes, shaggy goat hair, and plenty of gold (available at Harvey Nichols).