On & Around the Street

The Low-Down: Paris Shows A/W 2016

The autumn/winter shows in Paris have wrapped up with lots of new trends and must-have pieces that will have us lusting come the new season. Here’s what you need to know about the week’s key shows.

Chanel

There were lots of references at Chanel. There were equestrian themes to begin, with leather-brimmed boaters and riding boots, then a nod to the Eighties in tweed suits cut through with denim. We loved the diamanté Chanel emoji charms and the oodles of pearl necklaces.

Valentino

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were inspired by the worlds of Martha Graham, Merce Cunningham, Diaghilev, and the Ballets Russes, with explorations of dancers’ warm-up clothes, the layering of dresses and tutus over sweaters and footless tights, coats tossed over stagewear.

Louis Vuitton

At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière showed his most confident collection yet, inspired by a notional woman on an archaeological trip.

Chloé

Chloé’s Clare Waight Keller was inspired by the adventures of Anne-France Dautheville, a sensational Frenchwoman who traveled across Europe and through the Middle East on a motorbike in the Seventies.

Saint Laurent

Hedi Slimane fully embraced the Eighties at Saint Laurent, elevating the shoulder to extreme heights, and employing tonnes of sequins in sparkly mini dresses.

Christian Dior

Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, the Dior studio heads, are doing a sterling job at keeping the wheels turning since Raf Simons’ departure. They showed a collection that seemed young, with black suiting, with slit, high-waisted pencil skirts, worn with pointy silver and black low Mary Janes.

Nina Ricci

Guillaume Henry really hit his stride for his third Nina Ricci show. He complemented lashings of gorgeous evening wear with some tasty tailoring, much of which was just slightly oversized with an emphasis on extra-long sleeves.

Hermès

No-one does discreet style like Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermès. She offered a subtle take on the kind of understated clothes that her clientele love to wear.

Miu Miu

It was a wild mash-up at Miu Miu, with a lineup that stretched from Seventies and Eighties references, as well as military tailoring and velvety evening wear.