Serene neutrals offered a counterpoint to the season’s array of sugary pastels and vivid colour schemes, with shades from taupe to caramel, beige and tan seen on the runways of Chanel, Chloé, Fendi and Hermès, as well as proving popular with editors on the front row.
A delicious palette of sorbet pink, blue and green lent a charming sweetness on and off the runways as designers embraced a romantic mood. Whether in cascading ruffles or neat tailoring, head-to-toe works best here.
Perhaps a knee-jerk reaction to the state of global politics or just a simple desire to return to nature, a free-spirited attitude pervaded the collections through homespun details, touches of crochet, natural suede and Native American references. Even Anthony Vaccarello’s super sexy collection for Saint Laurent had a touch of the bohemian in the sheer floor-sweeping gown covered in stars, accessorised with a silver headband.
In a backlash against the streetwear and normcore trends or recent seasons, spring’s catwalks were all afroth with frills, ruffles, flowers (a life-size wisteria tree at Delpozo and thousands of scattered petals at Dior), and sensuous silks and tulle, while pink was prevalent everywhere, from the softest marshmallow hues to flamingo and rose. But it wasn’t all flounces: ladylike silhouettes, with prim blouses and elegant skirts, also held sway.
A trend that requires a certain dedication to your physique, bike pants are the newest evolution of the athleisure trend. They appeared at Prada in opulent jacquard, Fendi, Acne, MSGM and at Roberto Cavalli, where creative director Paul Surridge put his minimalist sensibility to work in a sunflower yellow pair, worn with a matching shawl collar jacket.
For spring/summer 2019, designers including Fendi and Salvatore Ferragamo upgraded the belt bags that reigned among the street style set last year, constructing them with plenty of pockets to resemble the kind of utility belts seen on building sites everywhere. Elsewhere, more familiar belt bag styles were seen at Prada and Roberto Cavalli, while Off-White’s Virgil Abloh did his in silver leather and neon snakeskin, and New York designer Christian Cowan had sparkly options encrusted with crystals.
In keeping with fashion’s lighter, looser, freer mood, models sauntered down the spring 2019 catwalks with their hands free and their bags worn cross-body-style. No, cross-body bags are nothing new, but the number of designers embracing the freedom of wearing a bag thus is noteworthy.
Fendi’s 1997 Baguette, possibly the first ever It bag, made a comeback for spring 2019. Silvia Venturini Fendi reincarnated the style after seeing images on Instagram of kids wearing their mother’s bags but, this time around, it comes with a longer strap option, or a belt bag version. While over at Dior, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri reincarnated the Dior Saddle bag.
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