On & Around the Street

OBJECT OF DESIRE – CARTIER LE PANTHÈRE WATCH

The motif of the mysterious and sleek panther has been at the beating heart of Cartier since Mr Louis Cartier commissioned a watercolour painting, called Woman With a Panther by George Barbier, in 1914. Later that year, Cartier created the first “Panther” piece, a bracelet watch set with onyx and diamonds. And now Cartier has resurrected one of its legendary watch styles, Le Panthère de Cartier.

Woman With Panther, by George Barbier for Cartier
"Woman With Panther", by George Barbier for Cartier, 1914

The love affair between Wallis Simpson and the Duke of Windsor saw Cartier’s wild cat enjoy a huge burst of popularity as the fashionable Mrs Simpson was often photographed wearing Cartier’s Panther in jewellery commissioned for her by the Duke from Cartier. In 1948, her golden cat perched upon an emerald cabochon brooch sparked a trend for the glamorously fierce cat, which has never really faded, with heiresses and actresses embracing Cartier’s cat throughout the ensuing decades.

The original Panthère de Cartier watch collection was launched in 1983 but was discontinued in the 2000s. This year it’s back, more dazzling than ever, in two sizes and nine different finishes, including some wonderfully twinkly diamond treasures.

Panthère de Cartier medium model - pink gold and black lacquer
Panthère de Cartier medium model - pink gold and black lacquer

In white, pink or yellow gold, stainless steel, a combination of yellow gold and steel, with some featuring diamond paved bezels, we’re quite taken with the reincarnated styles. Especially the pink gold version with strikingly graphic black lacquer links and details, and the totally lust-worthy diamond-encrusted watch with its black enamel spots – a truly stunning nod to the very first panther-inspired piece.

The collection will be available from June at Cartier, 143-144 Sloane St, SW1X

Panthère de Cartier, small model - white gold paved with brilliant-cut diamonds
Panthère de Cartier, small model - white gold paved with brilliant-cut diamonds
Panthère de Cartier small model - small model, yellow gold and steel
Panthère de Cartier small model - small model, yellow gold and steel